The Far North Queensland city of Townsville is sometimes overlooked. But as a gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, plus inland adventures and stellar food and drink picks, it definitely shouldn’t be. Here are our top suggestions for spending a weekend in Townsville.

Have breakfast at The Hoi Polloi Cafe

This dishevelled bolthole could be transplanted directly from Melbourne (it’s even located in a laneway called Flinders Street). Pot plants hang outside against a wall strewn with street art, while the interior is filled with mismatched vintage furniture. There’s a wall of black and white photographs hung saloon-style, and a breakfast bar that appears to be constructed partly from an old piano. Casual, no-fuss brekkie options include a McDoyle egg and bacon muffin; homemade granola with coconut yoghurt or a veggie stack with roast pumpkin and capsicum. The peach and goat’s cheese toast is also a winner. Sit outside in the laneway, or if you’re feeling the heat, there’s an air-conditioned lounge upstairs.

Take a drive to see the Texas Longhorns

Drive 90 minutes inland to the heritage gold-mining town of Charters Towers, for a slice of Texas in the tropics. Mick and Lynda Bethel breed Texas longhorn cattle and run outback safari tours from their Leahton Park property. Jump in a horse-drawn wagon or a modern all-terrain vehicle and meet the cattle, while learning about life on a working cattle farm. Stop for a campfire coffee or billy tea served in an 1866 chuck wagon, check out the huge collection of saddles and polished horns, and spend time in the Longhorn Love Shack (we’ll say no more). Tours run from May to October.

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Visit the Museum of Underwater Art
The Lost City of Atlantis may be a myth, but a greenhouse on the ocean floor – containing 20 carved concrete “reef guardians”, standing among the coral – is 100 per cent real. The Museum of Underwater Art features sculptures and art installations on the Great Barrier Reef, accessible to scuba divers and snorkellers.

The art works are all made by British underwater sculptor and environmentalist Jason deCaires Taylor, with the aim of raising awareness about the protection of the reef and inspiring visitors to become advocates. If you want to remain dry, you can visit Ocean Siren, an installation in the heart of Townsville, just near the Strand Jetty. The four-metre-tall statue is modelled on Takoda Johnson, a local Wulgurukaba traditional owner, and changes colour in response to the changing water temperature, highlighting the impact of climate change on the health of the Great Barrier Reef. The museum also runs workshops such as underwater drawing classes, with a reef guardian as your watery muse.

Have dinner at A Touch of Salt
There’s no better place to have a meal on a balmy, tropical evening in Townsville than outside by the Ross Creek waterfront. A Touch of Salt is a classy dinner option, but a pair of shorts is still acceptable attire to enjoy the restaurant’s locally sourced, modern Australian menu. Start with a light rye damper or kangaroo pastrami, then move on to charred octopus, Sichuan prawns or smoked cauliflower. Mains include braised lamb, coral trout and grilled rib eye with parmesan chats, and there’s a separate menu for vegetarians and vegans. The desserts are well known too (try the panna cotta or the macadamia tart). There’s also a refreshing list of cocktails and a small wine list.

Have a drink at the Heritage Exchange

Housed in the historic Exchange Hotel (built in 1881), this atmospheric, late-night haunt is a great spot for a post-dinner drink and a yarn with the locals. Set over two levels and containing four bars and a beer garden, you’ll find a spot to match whatever mood you’re in. Whisky lovers can choose from a global list, and the rum garden offers appropriately tropical drinks, including a Mambo No. 5 cocktail of Havana Club seven-year-old rum, Kahlua, sherry and bitters. Live bands play every Friday and Saturday night in the public bar, with a $10 cover charge after 9pm.

Stay at The Ville
At the end of the day, head to the Ville for luxury, Palm Springs-style accommodation – complete with a raised infinity pool set to the backdrop of the Coral Sea. The leaf-print carpets and velvet cushions give off a retro Californian vibe, while the rest of the decor and architecture is a subtle nod to the traditional Queenslander. The Ville is also home to five different dining options, with a pool-side bar, buffet breakfast and both casual and fine dining options included. Safe to say, you might want to extend your stay.

This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Virgin Australia. You can find flights to Townsville from your nearest capital city here.