Bella Brutta

There are a lot of Sydney hospitality guns involved in pizzeria Bella Brutta: Luke Powell of Chippendale’s LP’s Quality Meats, his partner Tania Houghton, and Elvis Abrahanowicz, Joe Valore and Sarah Doyle of Porteno and Continental Deli Bar and Bistro.

As these people all like different things, the pizza doesn't fall into a particular style such as Neapolitan or New Yorker. The base is thin, and the edge is puffy and blistered, but it isn't as bready as a Neapolitan-style slice. It's just crisp enough to resist sagging. It’s savoury, slightly sour and elastic thanks to its long fermentation, and it’s made with a mix of Australian wholegrain and ultra-refined Italian flours.

The toppings are creative and anything goes. There’s one with tomato, pepperoni and parmesan; another with pecorino, fior di latte and mortadella; and a clam pizza with fermented chilli, lemon juice, parsley and a splash of toasted garlic oil. And the menu has an anchovy section, so if you want some fillets they can be added after your pizza is cooked. All the charcuterie cuts are by the LP’s team.

Otherwise there are just a couple of antipasti nibbles (pickles and salami), some salads, a trio of vegetarian sides, tiramisu and cannoli. The bar is well stocked with natural Italian wines, and when the sun shines it’s a lovely place to linger. The design is bright and classic without being retro.