Since opening about six years ago, Yebisu Izakaya became known as a top spot for a hearty, izakaya-style feed in the CBD. Now, the hospitality group behind the Regent Place eatery, Yebisu Group, has given it a complete facelift, starting with renaming the restaurant Inase Sakaba, which, roughly translated, means “cool sake dining place”.

“Because we had more than 100 dishes on the food menu, many customers used to ask me, ‘What is your concept? What are your signature dishes?’” founder Arioki Kondo tells Broadsheet. “What they didn’t know was that izakaya means a lot of variety of food … but some customers didn’t understand that, so I thought maybe we should change the name and the concept altogether.”

Now, Kondo can confidently assert that Inase Sakaba has not one, but two specialities: okonomiyaki and yakitori. Starting with the savoury Japanese pancake, choose between the Osaka style, which is light but jam-packed with a mix of ingredients including cabbage and ginger, or the Hiroshima-style, which is layered with yakisoba (stir-fried noodles). Both styles of pancake can be had with pork, beef or chicken.

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For a fancier take, order the 9+ marble score Wagyu okonomiyaki, or a version with lobster tail and prawn. There’s even a gluten-free option using rice flour. Each okonomiyaki is large enough to be shared and comes topped with original sweet and tangy okonomiyaki sauce, Japanese mayonnaise and a generous covering of bonito flakes.

The range of yakitori is just as impressive. While there’s the usual chicken cartilage, chicken skin and giblets, there are also more modern takes on the charcoal-grilled skewers: juicy cherry tomatoes wrapped in bacon, tsukune (chicken meatballs) with poached eggs, and bacon-wrapped scallop with nori butter. Score yourself a counter seat in front of the open kitchen to watch your okonomiyaki and yakitori as they’re cooked to order.

Other new additions include bowls of noodles – soba and udon – served hot in dashi broth, with fish cake and fried bean curd or a curry, or cold with a dark umami dipping sauce and a side of tempura.

Yebisu regulars won’t be disappointed either, with sushi, sashimi, rice bowls and hotpot all still available on the menu. “The menu is 50 per cent Yebisu, while another 50 per cent is okonomiyaki and yakitori,” Kondo says.

The drinks list is still typical izakaya fare – Japanese brews on tap, a range of Japanese whiskies, cans of chuhai (a fizzy alcoholic drink) and, of course, sake.

Like the rest of Inase Sakaba, there are still lingering remnants of the original Yebisu in the decor, such as the display wall of towering sake bottles and luminous paper lanterns. But the brick walls that were once covered in bright graffiti art have now been covered with calming green tiles to match the upcycled and sanded-timber frames that were once lacquered in a dark brown tone.

Inase Sakaba
Shop 7–10, 501 George Street, Sydney
(02) 9261 1552

Hours:
Mon to Wed 5pm–10.30pm
Thu to Sat 5pm–11.15pm
Sun 5pm–10.30pm

inasesakaba.com.au
@inase_sakaba_townhall