Fujisaki

Fujisaki – by Lotus Group is an ambitious and modern fine-dining restaurant.

The kitchen is run by Ryuichi Yoshii, a sushi master who was last seen at Yoshii doing omakase (chef’s selection) menus, and Chui Lee Luk, the ex-head chef and owner of Claude’s. They each have their own domain. Yoshii serves sushi at a small bar overlooking his kitchen space. And Lee Luk takes charge of the modern Japanese fare on the main menu.

The menu covers Japanese cooking techniques: deep-fried; robata-grilled; raw; and steamed and simmered. There is a salted-duck dish that mixes French, Japanese and Chinese techniques. And a soy-free tofu-like creation made by melding kuzu starch, pumpkin, lotus and Japanese radishes. A seemingly simple skewer of octopus is layered with cured pork jowl and cabbage, then brushed with a fermented chilli paste and yuzukoshō (a paste made from chilli, yuzu peel and salt).

Because Fujisaki has a dedicated pastry chef the end of the meal is just as intricate, particularly if you order the Sweet Wasabi. It’s a mix of white-chocolate mousse and mango that’s shaped to resemble a wasabi root sitting on a patch of soil.

The dining room is lavish and textured and looks out onto the Barangaroo bay. There are black, navy and brown tones that set off the restaurant’s bold features – golden-velvet seats, a back-lit onyx bar, brass trimmings and a central see-through wine cellar.

There is a 300-plus wine list and seasonal cocktails. Expect ingredients as cherry blossom, edamame and shiso.