We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: some very good bars opened in Perth this year. Some are big. Some are small. Some make their own booze. Some aren’t even wine bars. In a drinking landscape that’s steadily improving, they tell the story of a bar scene that’s maturing while simultaneously defining Perth style.
Here, we raise a glass to the new bars that caught our attention this year (in alphabetical order).
Missed our round-up of Perth’s best restaurant and cafe openings of 2021? Find them here and here.
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The name might mean house, but for devotees of organic wines and winemaking, this bar-restaurant-bottle shop triple-threat feels like home. Visually, the space leans hard into aspects of ’60s design – mid-century modern design flourishes, a lush sound system – but in full flight, Casa encapsulates the now. Guests browse fridges (no wine is held at ambient temperature) and quiz staff for recommendations while cherry-picking from Paul Bentley’s cosmopolitan Japanese-Mexican-Italian menu.
What’s the biggest wow moment here? The awesomeness of brothers Tom and Sam Hart’s first venue? The scope, precision and deliciousness of James Cole Bowen’s first menu as a head chef? Or the quality of the beer, wine and service in a neighbourhood spot that’s as suited to big-night-out shenanigans as it is something lower key? The only way to be sure is to keep revisiting this most likeable of newcomers.
Sitting pretty on the Swan River in East Fremantle, the newest project from hospitality veteran Miles Hull coolly refutes all those bar-with-a-view notions. Although our man took his inspiration from the rough and tumble seaside watering holes of Europe, Jetty is something of a looker thanks in no small part to Michael Patroni’s designer-industrial aesthetic. Euro-leaning wines and cocktails plus an accessible menu of European flavours makes staying for one more all too easy.
Describing your forte as “weird wine” might seem, well, weird, but it chimes with the off-kilter nature of the Foxtrot Unicorn team’s Freo spin-off. There are many reasons why Freo locals – in particular, the port city’s hospo set – gravitate towards this renovated cottage on pine-lined Norfolk Street. For some it’s the mighty cellar. Others come for Blaze Young’s retro, Scandi-inspired dining as much as they do the wining, while cheery service inspires return visits. For many, Nieuw Ruin’s appeal is about all of the above.
The video games might be vintage originals, but the Palace Arcade crew’s third (and biggest) opening is bang up to date. Exposed brick meets Tron-like lighting while the drinks take in everything from sharp cocktails to well-chosen whisky and wine. The XXL pizzas are still there, but they’re joined by an expanded menu of likeable eats.
This months-old mega-brewery is proof that big things can come in big packages. Despite an (eventual) four-figure capacity, Pirate Life’s west coast bureau feels more precinct than beer-barn with the former Sony Building on Murray Street subdivided into different zones. The main bar is where you’ll most of the action – and the beer, cocktails and smart-casual bar food – but a dedicated open-fire restaurant, (soon to open) al fresco bar and swish function spaces deserve recognition, too.
Although this ambitious distillery-bar opened in late 2020, we’re including it here because its opening got lost in the chaos of the festive season. While Republic of Fremantle spirits can be found across the state, they’re best admired at this sharply designed space where bartenders mix cocktails both classic and new-age. Great small plates round off a compelling package.
Scarborough and Doubleview locals can’t get enough of their new local. Opened by the Bread & Circuses crew in the old Chinta site on Scarborough Beach Road, St Brigid is a study in nailing the basics. Build a handsome space (working with a trusted architect like Patrick Miller from Finespun doesn’t hurt), drop in a good bar and a kitchen overseen by veteran chef Kurt Sampson and they will come.
Named for its location – you’ll find this fresh-faced bar in the City of Vincent – as well as the patron saint of winemakers (that would be Saint Vincent), Vincent was a smash the moment it opened this year. While the wine list is diverse, ex-Must head chef Andre Mahe brings Gallic flavour to the party with bistro classics and excellent charcuterie.
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