Long Chim

Buried beneath the respectfully restored State Treasury building, Long Chim Perth (its sister restaurant is in Sydney) brings Bangkok buzz, grit and soul to the heart of the CBD. It’s by renowned Aussie chef and cookbook author David Thompson, who spent more than 30 years in Bangkok and whose now-closed London restaurant, Nahm, won the world’s first Michelin star for a Thai restaurant.

At Long Chim, the semi-open scullery recreates the traditional dishes he ate while living in the Thai capital. A crowd favourite is the glistening half roast duck, which is served on a bed of choy sum with zesty pickled ginger, spring onion and hoisin dipping sauce. Plus, there are familiar dishes such as som tum (papaya salad), pad see ew and pad thai. To finish, banana roti drenched in condensed milk is an easy choice. Durian ice cream is for the more daring. The food here hasn’t been Westernised. Expect chilli, and lots of it.

A short wine list provides some relief from the spice, including a Thai drop for something a bit different. A separate bar and courtyard serve the drinks crowd with Thai-inspired cocktails and snacks until late. Visit the quad after dark to watch the murals by Thai graffiti artists come to life.