“Good cannoli have two elements: the shell and the filling,” says Giorgio Linguanti, founder of award-winning Melbourne cheese factory That’s Amore and its offshoot Cannoleria. “The shell has to be fresh and crunchy, and the filling needs to be smooth but rich in flavour.”
Linguanti moved to Australia in 2004 from Sicily, the birthplace of the humble cannoli. Growing up he ate them religiously – the crisp, golden pastry tubes filled with sweet ricotta and dusted with icing sugar are everywhere.
It wasn’t until he moved to Australia that he started making the confection himself, and after founding That’s Amore he began selling cannoli at markets. Cannoleria now has three outposts in Melbourne – and has been recognised at the Australian Grand Dairy Awards – so Linguanti knows a thing or two about jazzing up the sweet treat.
Store-bought shells are fine
It all starts with the shell. A sweet dough is rolled flat, then cut into circles. The disc is traditionally rolled around a stalk of sugar cane – a canna, from which cannoli gets its name – then deep-fried to form the tube-shaped shell.
“It’s a bit tricky to make – it has to be crunchy, but not hard; it should have the balanced consistency. It won’t hold its shape if it’s too soft, but shouldn’t be too hard to bite. You have to get it just right,” Linguanti says.
If that sounds intimidating, it’s perfectly fine to buy your shells. Many European grocers stock imported ones from Italy, and a few local shops have begun making them, too.
The Cannoleria also sells a cannoli kit with everything you need for your first go. Each box comes with either six large or 12 mini cannoli shells, a piping bag filled with fresh sweetened ricotta, and crushed pistachios and icing sugar to finish.
Nail the basics first
There’s a whole world of exciting flavour combinations out there, but you’ve got to start with the classic filling. Cannoli are typically filled with ricotta that’s been sweetened with sugar and cinnamon, and Linguanti thinks it’s the first filling everyone should make.
Again, a balance of textures is important: it should be soft like a custard, but firm enough to hold its shape. Linguanti suggests leaving your ricotta in a cheesecloth or colander in the fridge overnight to drain any excess moisture.
Beat the three ingredients together with an electric mixer to get your desired consistency. There’s no firm rule about how long it should take or what it should look like, so trust your gut.
“You can only know through that special grandmother [method] – stick your finger in and give it a taste,” he says with a laugh.
Get creative with combinations
Each week Cannoleria experiments with seasonal ingredients or tries to adapt other desserts into cannoli form – think blood-orange and thyme, a Ferrero Rocher-inspired number, pumpkin and pecan pie filling for Halloween, and even one with Vegemite.
“We spoke to some people from Italy about it and they were so against it. They said, ‘No, no, no! Why Vegemite?’ But then they tasted it and it was actually great – the sugar in the ricotta base went well with the saltiness, kind of like salted caramel,” he says.
You could also take cues from the flavours of That’s Amore’s Tartufo Classic gelato – a truffle-esque scoop of hazelnut and dark-chocolate gelato with a ganache centre, coated in cocoa – which was crowned Best Dairy Dessert at the Australian Grand Dairy Awards in February. And consider your garnish: cannoli are dusted with icing sugar, and the exposed ends are sprinkled with something else that adds texture. Crushed pistachios are traditional, but you could also try mini chocolate chips, toasted coconut flakes, or candied orange peels.
Pipe at the last possible moment
It all comes back to the two key elements: that delicious, creamy filling and a crunchy shell. To keep it from going soggy, don’t fill it until you’re about to serve.
A piping bag is the easiest way to go – and will give you a pretty shape – but in a pinch you can also use a spoon to scoop the filling into the golden tubes.
If the plan is to take them to a friend’s house, don’t be afraid to rock up with deconstructed cannoli. Bring your filled piping bag, empty cannoli shells and garnishes. “Fill up the cannoli in front of them and serve it fresh. The shell will still be crispy, and your guests will feel a little bit more special,” Linguanti says.
This article was produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Dairy Australia.
