There really doesn’t seem to be a neutral stance when it comes to face oils. Everyone has an opinion – like my grandmother, who has used nothing on her face but coconut oil for the past 10 years. They also come with controversy. Some internet reviews will sing their praises, while others blame them for every single breakout ever. The thing is, there’s some truth to both. Face oils can mean the difference between complexion heaven and hell; it really just comes down to what oil you’re using.
We’ve compiled an introduction to face oils – something you can send in the group chat and reference when you’re perusing the shelves at Mecca. It covers all the main players (marula, jojoba, rosehip) and some contested options as well (looking at you, mineral oil).
Marula Oil
Marula oil is a crowd pleaser namely because it’s loaded with antioxidants, nutrients and vitamins. Prudvi Mohan Kaka, chief scientific officer at Deciem, explains that it’s a great source of oleic acid, so it helps restore the skin's radiant tone. Sydney aesthetician Melanie Grant also recommends it for devitalised and mature skins or anyone looking to “preserve and promote collagen stores” (hello, all of us). It’s also got a beautiful texture – luxurious but not heavy.
Try: If your skin is dry and prone to dullness or pigmentation. The Ordinary 100% Cold-Pressed Virgin Marula Oil is high quality and affordable. Press it into skin after serums and before moisturiser.
Coconut Oil
According to Desiree Stordahl, Paula’s Choice senior research and education manager, a high saturated fat level makes coconut oil particularly beneficial for very dry skin, especially on the body. On the flipside, though, Grant warns that this comedogenic structure can “trap sebum, grime and dirt within the pores”, so proceed with caution if you’re breakout-prone. Side note: Smells like a holiday.
Try: Go for a rich moisturiser where coconut oil is blended with other goodies, such as Paula’s Choice Clinical Ultra-Rich Moisturizer. Foile’s cold-pressed pure coconut oil makes for a divine body treatment, too.
Jojoba Oil
Fun fact: Jojoba is not an oil, but a wax ester that actually mimics the structure of the lipids found in our complexion. The Jojoba Company founder Vicki Ensgall tells us that it “helps the skin help itself”, making it friendly for all skin types or conditions. It’s worth noting that it also has antibacterial properties and helps regulate oil flow, so it’s great for breakout-prone skin. Of all the oils, this is the “least likely” to clog pores, says Grant.
Try: The Jojoba Company Australian Jojoba is cult for a reason. Use it before moisturiser, as well as on elbows, knees, in hair and during a DIY facial massage.
Rosehip Oil
As Kaka tells us, Rosehip is a bit of a multi-tasker thanks to the inclusion of linoleic acid. Not only does this work to balance sebum production, but it also reduces signs of ageing. Grant tells us it’s also great for treating scars thanks to high concentrations of vitamins C and A. It’s widely available and often reasonably priced, making it a great all-rounder.
Try: Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum is arguably one of the most popular face oils around. It contains rosehip alongside other cold-pressed oils. Expect calmer, clearer, more nourished skin.
Sweet Almond Oil
Sweet Almond Oil is a rich source of triglycerides and fatty acids, explains Stordahl. In its pure form, it’s best suited for normal to dry skin as well as anyone experiencing itching or eczema. Grant even suggests adding a splash to a hot bath for added body hydration.
Try: Go-To Skincare’s Face Hero is heaven in a peach bottle. Massage in before moisturiser for a plump, bouncy face.
Buriti Oil
Buriti is lighter and thinner than other oils but still super replenishing and smoothing. Stordahl explains it has a high antioxidant content, so it’s ace for “addressing tonal inconsistencies and signs of sun damage in mature skins,”according to Grant.
Try: Press into skin before moisturiser, or add a few drops into night cream when you’re feeling flat. RMS’s Beauty Oil contains buriti and feels like velvet on dry skin.
Olive Oil
Olive oil is jam-packed with fatty acids and antioxidants, making it a proven anti-ager. Grant rates it for its extensive nutrient profile (vitamins A, D, K and E as well as naturally occurring squalene) to “seal in moisture and prevent trans-epidermal water loss”. It's best for normal to dry and dehydrated skins.
Try: By all means do as your nonna does and apply straight from the bottle. Otherwise, try a nourishing serum like in Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum.
Mineral Oil
Mineral oil gets a bad rap for clogging pores, but according to Stordahl, that’s actually a myth. Its large molecular size makes it impossible to penetrate skin (who knew?). But Grant still suggests choosing a more “nutrient dense” counterpart for skin benefits (in addition to the moisture mineral oil provides the skin). Regardless, you can sleep easy if your favourite products contain mineral oil.
