In 2000, he helped kickstart Melbourne’s modern wave of cult local bakeries with Baker D. Chirico and quickly became one of the city’s favourite culinary figures. Now Chirico has opened the first branch of his eponymous bakery outside his home city. And it’s not just the famous sourdough that’s made the move north. “I have [temporarily] moved to Brisbane to make sure the bakery has my full attention,” Chirico tells Broadsheet.

There’s been a lot to attend to. This month, six years after Chirico originally signed the lease, the bakery opened in Newstead’s swanky Long Island development. The delay was largely due to Covid and building material shortages, but “the bakery design also had to be tweaked a little to make the workspace flow better,” he says.

Queues of keen carb lovers pick up more than just their daily bread every Friday, Saturday and Sunday morning. Baker D Chirico classics including the sourdough loaves beloved by Neil Perry and Heston Blumenthal, custard-filled bomboloni and cannoli, are all here. But there’s a stronger focus on savouries at the Brisbane store: a range of panini, a hybrid Italian-Japanese egg sandwich on brioche, and sometimes calzone. The standout so far is the potato, caramelised onion and bechamel danish – it’s rich, but not rich enough to stop you having seconds.

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Inside, Baker D Chirico Brisbane is all speckled terrazzo marble and brass-rimmed tables, with a high, curved ceiling covered in wooden slats. It’s inspired by the bread-basket-style ceiling of Chirico’s Carlton store and intended to evoke the gentle curve of a croissant. Outside you’ll find more seating and a little, red Piaggio Ape three-wheeler van sporting the Baker D. Chirico logo. Coupled with the nearby fountains, the development may be called Long Island but its Roman piazza vibe is complete.

The bakery is currently open just three days a week and almost has the frenzied feeling of a pop-up. But Chirico says the goal is to scale things up gradually over the coming months. “We plan to introduce Thursdays in November and hopefully Wednesdays in December before Christmas.” By the end of the year, the shop should be running on its intended schedule, opening from 7.30am Wednesday to Sunday every week.

“We are thrilled to be in Brisbane … Customers have been extremely supportive and patient as we find our feet,” Chirico says. Judging by those queues, Brisbanites already know these baked goods are worth the wait.

Baker D Chirico Brisbane
18 Longland Street, Newstead
No phone

Hours:
Fri to Sun 8am–3pm

bakerdchirico.com.au/
@bakerdchirico